Sail Life - Garmin Fantom 18, GMI Wired Starter Pack 52, VHF antenna & LED nav lights

Publicerades den 18 okt 2020
In this week's video, I finish rewiring the mast and install a Garmin Fantom 18 Radar, Garmin Wired Starter Pack 52, VHF antenna, and LED nav lights.
00:00 Introduction
00:46 Products overview
01:56 Rewiring the mast
05:10 New coax cable
06:39 PL259 connector
07:57 VHF antenna
08:43 Garmin GMI Wired Starter Pack 52
09:54 gWind wind instrument
13:45 Garmin Fantom 18 radar
14:27 Scanstrut SC20 radar mount
17:22 Mounting the radar
19:50 AquaSignal LED light
20:50 Airmar DST810 Thru-hull transducer
24:38 Project status
25:39 Cya!
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Kommentarer

  • why you did not install the radar with gimbal on to the backstay cable?

  • Great episode. Glad it all worked out. Did you know your face lights up when you start playing with the electronics. So cool. See you next week ;)

  • The screws are called 'self-tapping.'

  • If I had installed that VHF antenna i would have flipped the mounting bracket 180 degrees so that the loading coil at the base of the antenna was flush to, or slightly above the very top of the mast. I feel like having that coil down low and right next to the aluminum mast is going to affect the antennas resonance and radiation pattern.

  • One question although this may be already too late to ask. The VHF/UHF antenna is flexible right? ... so if it bends too much under heavy winds there is a possibility that the antenna can indeed Hit the wind anemometer .... and maybe even cause the propeller to break .... Just a concern about the thing being mounted very close to the anemometer.

  • Bonjour, merci pour toutes vos vidéos mais pourquoi l'icone des sous titres n'apparait plus afin de pouvoir traduire automatiquement ce que vous expliquer? Merci. Hello, thank you for all your videos but why the subtitle icon no longer appears in order to be able to automatically translate what you are explaining? Thank you

  • For randar cable or electric cable its better to use this (nylon cable gland to hold and seal electrical cables) www.pngegg.com/en/png-dvjgl

  • Another excellent vid....thank you. While the electronics are fun, I also enjoy having an old school windex on the top of my mast.

  • when pulling cable, don't use duct tape, use good electrical tape, keep the tape stretched as you apply it, that way you have the advantage of friction (or stiction)in addition to the adhesive to add pulling power, it maintains a smaller profile and when using a pull string use a half hitch to cinch the string to the incoming wire

  • Back on top form Mads; excellent video, thank you.

  • I cried a bit at the size of that hole. And then the connector had to come off anyway, to fit through the bottom of the mast.🤕😥😲💩

  • Good progress! Love to see you work and solve any "little" problem you encounter on your way! Not too long now before you can splash Athena - what a milestone!! 😀👍

  • Hej Mads - hvor har du købt den der nylon doo hickie - til at trække gennem masten..... ? Den kan vel også bruges til kabelføringer generelt på skibet ... tak for en masse gode tips. michael

  • Hi Mads. Another great video. Have you considered the possibility that your mast head LED lights might interfere with your VHF signal since the antenna is right beside the light? I’m not an expert but a rigger mentioned it to me recently. LEDs make so much sense but not of VHF or AIS is going to suffer

  • Don't know if anyone else said antything or it gets mentioned in the viseo later but the bolts on the feet of the radar mount should be nut down in case they ever come off... Not likely but the bolt will stay in place. Maybe I saw things wrong?

  • what are you using for securing the antenna cable grommet. thanks

  • Another great Vid Mads. BUT, please find an alternative to the "finger without blood test" for determining whether the edges of a freshly drilled hole has any burrs. 👇

  • Mads. just to let you know , I totally appreciate the fact that not only are you doing an amazing job, but the fact that you are filming, editing, producing and doing all of this refit on your own is quite remarkable. I feel your pain and love your tenacity, it is rare in people these days. Top stuff. Cheers Ross

  • Sorry to chime in on this matter this late, but You should have installed the log-transducer in front of the keel to get consistent readings on both tacks. I had a log installed 1/3 from the front of the keel, and the difference was several tenths of seconds from tack to tack. It made it basically useless on a beat. Luckily You'll be all sailing downwind or motoring, and looking at Your COG anyways so this won't be a big problem for s/y Athena. I do suggest that all others install the log-transducer on the centerline and about 1/4 of the keel chord in front of the keel. Because sometimes you race. At least when there's one single other sailboat on the horizon. As there always is. You always race.

  • I actually enjoyed the longer video thank you.

  • "not for resale" label on that Airmar DST810... did you neglect to declare a paid promotion?

  • Rotate the head of your rivet gun and it will give you better leverage. Imo

  • "time codes" ... how dare you! Eleventh commandment: you shall not split episodes, watching the whole weekly mats is simply mandatory

  • This was a very expensive video... :-)

  • Yes, a long video, but these interesting and informative videos can never be too long. But nevertheless, I do begin to experience a strange sense of unease and anxiety if too much time transpires without any sanding.

  • Getting excited!

  • Hej Mads Nu har jeg i løbet af min sygdom de sidste 14 dage spist mig igennem samtlige af dine videoer. Jeg sætter stor pris på dine videoer da jeg selv overvejer et istand DIY projekt. Har du fundet en køber til Obelix? Nu har jeg ledt efter dit link til ham der laver både men kan ikke huske hvad hans kanal hedder..

  • Mads, How waterproof is the plug and socket on the "spinnymathing" cable ? Cheers Eric

  • Mads! IMPORTANT REMINDER: You kinda eased off the cute stuff for Ava like the voice balloons and "little things that matter" as well as they are noticed. Probably that time to do another voice balloon or little "Love snippet" for your Ava. Just helpin a brother out :) Cheers from Canada

    • He doesn't have to be doing any thing like that on camera, as long as he's doing it off camera. Not everything has to be broadcast on YT for the world...

  • Am I the only asperger guy here who will never watch this Channel again? 😀😀

  • signal loss...worry about that with several hundred foot runs...not 30ft run...use the smaller wire no prob

  • If you hadn't picked such a pos you would have run out of things to video long ago.

  • Just bloody marvellous content Mads, super entertainment. I'm so excited for you!!!

  • Finally a little bit of sanding again!

  • make sure it is not possible to have water built up inside the mast top light. I had a problem with badly corroded contacts with mall function the light. I had to replace the contacts after one season.

  • is the vhf-antenna mount bracket not installed upside down? Also you need to isolate the antenna foot from the mount bracket!

  • Am I sensing you are less than happy with Aquasignal? 😂

  • Last year i mounted the same sounder sensor to my boat and i found a note in the manual not to put it next to the keel. When you heel to the wrong side the keel might shadow the sound field.

  • Allthough you spoke fast enough, the video got long. I loved it. Not so many details ( for first time), but i hope you can tell more (much more) at some other time. Great video.

  • Your going to want to install that cable lanyard to that Radar. It is a safety feature. A previous comment by Yves explains why. Put that on there man!

  • The level of detail you put into you how to dyi video's is amazing, thank you.

  • Hi Mads, one advice from my rigging specialist: usually rigging starts to corrode inside the bottom terminals, where you don't see it. rainwater comes inbetween the steel wire and the terminal. There is an easy way to prevent this: dip the terminal into molten hot wax (or molten candles), in such a way that the remaining air/space between steel wire and terminal is filled with wax. After taking it out, no rain/salt/water can come into this invisible place anymore, and your rigging will last a lot longer/you don't have to worry about rust in a place you can't check.

  • Aqua signal = 👎would have tried to talk you out of that product. Otherwise, great content ! Thanks

  • When pulling wires use a lot more tape than that.

  • Hi Mads, I am going to be installing a new steaming and deck light on my mast soon and will be sure to avoid that awkward signal. I have never particularly cared for their products and I’m slightly curious why if you thought it was a horrible light you still mounted it? She’s looking good

  • This is the most interesting to me. I'm an electronics/amateur radio/comms guy.. and yes, using that larger coax - what's the cable type please - is a good move. Less loss will mean greater comms range and reduced susceptibility to interference. Questions: 1. With the radome mounted with that thick mast behind, you'll lose a good segment of coverage. Why not mount it on top, in the clear? If you do, does it compensate for pitch and roll? 2. The transducer has a paddle wheel to measure speed through the water. Presuming the mounting location affords a true flow (think about cavitation). I have an airmar LB150, which - with its integrated GPS - returns speed, wind, relative wind, and other data. No immersion required. Please explain any advantage to the immersion sensor. 3. Will the NMEA network take data from older devices (like the LB150)? Or does everything have to be NMEA2000? 4. That mast light bracket looks to be incompatible with the shape of your mast. True? Following along! Thank you!!

  • The attitude readings will be helpful in documenting why you are feeling seasick. :)

  • May be the safety cable for the radar is to prevent it from falling down while you are installing the radar? Just a guess.

  • No service loop in the coax?

  • When you finally get out there, don't forget to look up from all your gadgets and enjoy the view.

  • Mads' chill demeanor makes this big unruly project seem like a walk in the park - Amazing to think he's not just doing this epic refit mostly solo, but filming it all as well and having it ready every Sunday like clockwork! I'd have had a nervous breakdown by this point even without the filming/editing.

  • Great video as always! well done Mads!

  • Mads I think your transducer hole location is to close to your keel. I’ve got the same transducer and it is installed close to the keel similar to yours and I get “keel bounce” false readings of depth bouncing off the keel. The issue is the DST 810 models have a 10 degree forward/aft by 44 degree side beam angle. The 44 degree beam is to compensate for sail boat heel but the downside is the ultrasonic beam can bounce off the keel giving a false depth reading.

  • Supposed to be SWR that's spell checker for you.....

  • Hi, what kind of Coaxcabel are you using?

  • Fore sure cut all those bolts on the radar unit off flush as it will shred your spinnaker

  • Looking forward to seeing the mast vertical. Something about a horizontal mast is just bad juju haha.

  • I am a ham Radio operator and I watched your video on mounting your antenna. For best signal the base of the antenna should be above any metal of your mast . The mast being higher will effect the sweat of your antenna.Please read up on this.

  • Aqua Signal is plastic rubbish, for the other nav lights got for the danish LOPOLOGHTS they are indestructible.

  • Great fim as ever and so good to see splash down is near!! that will be an incredible moment for you. I would install the Radar, wind instrument and other items now - easier than from a bosun's chair with no risk of dropping them the height of the mast and any experienced mast crane operators is used to looking after these items when moving the mast.

  • Great work Mads!!!!

  • Awesome and do-hickey filled ... “see you”! 😄

  • Hi Mads - first of all great video and a huge respect and kudos your way for doing every little thing on the boat in a prestine way. That serves as a huge inspiration for all the small jobs on my boat. Being a dane i hope to be able to see you on the water IRL someday!

  • Great video as always. How about an Ava update on her getting ready for sailing life.

  • “Spinnymathing” love it

  • Fun stuff!! I love boat tech

  • I would totally sand and repaint the outside of the radar dome to remove the Garmin logo. One should not be a unpaid advertiser for such companies.

  • Is it just me or are there others who worry about what we are going to watch when he finally sails off? Thank you very much for sharing your experience with us. Just watched your last video. And its become part of my monday. Always excited to see a new video.

  • Nice job 👍 I did really enjoy the long video as you said but it was good see you on the next one

  • Your a good lad Fantastic job my friend Respect

  • Activate Coppercoat ???? SANDING !!!!

  • The next time you are visiting Ava go to Harbor Freight and spend $20 on their larger rivit tool. The head doesn't pivot but it has 16" long handles, a collection jar for the scrap wire tabs, and will easily do even the biggest rivets. Monel are the toughest rivets to do. They are even harder than the steel ones used for general construction. I have both a smaller rivet tool like the one used in the video and the heavy-duty Harbor Freight "Pittsburgh" brand one for larger rivets and only use the big one on any monel rivets. Even the tiny monel rivets are too hard on the smaller tool. Aluminum rivets are so much easier.

  • A couple of comments..... First the RG58 coax vs the LMR400 (I am betting) will make make a difference in a signal lost (or gain) . At VHF freq worth the extra cost. Second, did you mount the antenna mount upside down? I would have had the bracket up with the coil above the mast. Finally I would move the nav light away from the antenna. LED are notoriously bad to generate noise on VHF. Might want to move them to an end of the mast head.

  • possibly a video camera on the mast??

  • I used to race sailboats and we would pull our speed transducer every time we were done racing. I actually got into the habit of pulling the transducer on my cruising sailboat until it was needed to reduce the amount of growth on the transducer.

  • You are right that your rivet tool is on the limit of its capacity with (hard) monel rivets of that size. Aluminium rivets are much easier to use, but also much weaker, of course. There is an easy method to make your tool handle the task a bit better: On the second draw, when the resistance increases and the nail is closer to popping, leave a small gap between the tool head and the rivet when you close the handles. That will bring the handles closer together before you get resistance. Then you have much more pull power. Just try. Biiig difference. :-)

  • When I watch your video clips I get jealous and start contemplating quitting my job and start restoring an old boat full-time. It is such a pleasure to watch you !! Now I have to wait again for several days ...... Thank you very much for all the tips and details !

  • is there a crack on your mast 19:08 ???

  • Hi Mads, the screws for the wind bracket are called "Taptite" in the UK - although they are sometimes confused with self-tapping screws - which are similar, but not quite (self-tapping screws have a slit down the side that cuts the thread)!!

  • Why people never built the galley in an enclosed area with exhaust system installed to bring the smell out of the boat. So we can run air conditioner in other parts of the boat permanently.

  • My experience with tapped threads in aluminium on mast heads is that they tend to wear and loosen. Your wind instrument bracket bolts may tap their own threads, but I'd be tempted to put some nyloc nuts on the back of them as well for insurance, since you're able to reach the back easily.

  • Amazing enthusiasm for all new electro gadgets on this video. Mads - can you point to me you explain why you bought a warrier 38

  • Trilobular threads - these are fasteners with a rounded, but slightly triangular thread profile. The recesses of a trilobular thread allow the target housing to cold-flow or creep around them, granting increased resistance to vibration. Trilobular threads have the added advantage of being highly effective in thread-cutting, but their irregular thread shape means that their vibration resistance will be greatly reduced with repeated use, making them more useful as a semi-permanent solution.

  • As with most things it's all about the prep work. In this case I would not cut the connector off the Garmin Marine Network RJ-45 cable. Instead, remove the retaining nut and install this split connector: buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/27937/pn/010-11170-00. By removing the retaining nut you may have enough room to get the now smaller connector through through your holes in the mast. If the cable won't pass through the holes, then you can remove and replace the entire RJ-45 connector. buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/1219 When routing the RJ-45 cable you may want to consider using one of these. buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/1191 Also I advise to do an operational check of you Garmin Radar to ensure you have adequate 12VDC and amperage and the Garmin RJ-45 cable is functioning properly. Otherwise, if you cut the RJ-45 connectors and the reinstall a new field connector, you run the risk of a improperly installing the connector. At that point you will have to troubleshoot the cable, connector and the device. The Radar gets the 12vdc via the power cable, but the "power on" signal comes from the chartplotter via the RJ-45 cable. So do the ops check prior to the final install. I would do it with the mast down, because once the mast is stepped and you find out that the new cable connector was faulty, you have to run a new cable or fix the connector with the mast stepped.. The pre install ops check can be done easy enough, just test it using a 12vdc battery or regulated DC power source or the best option is to test it using the boats power source/power distribution system. Test the system BEFORE you cut the RJ-45 cable connector; that way you know the power distribution is good on the boat, chartplotter is sending the signal, the RJ-45 cable is good and finally the GMR18 Fantom is operational. At that point IF you cut a cable or alter the install during the final installation, you focus on the area you altered; verses looking at the entire system. As for installing the gWind transducer, I suggest doing a similar operational check to ensure your NMEA 2000 Network is fully functional. Additionally, I would install a Field Installable Connector at the base of the mast. buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/149359 This will allow/enable you to easily attach/detach the NEXUS mast cable at the BASE of the mast along with the other electrical cable when you step/unstep the mast. Otherwise, you will have to fish the cable through your cabin from wherever you place the GND 10. Search on SEnewss: Installing a Garmin gWind transducer.

  • If you ever have to pull many cables together at the same time, use dish soap to lubricate the cables. I make up something called a reach rod through three 25 ft rod with control cables for an automated welding machine inside pipes for a oil transfer station. The “soap” will stick to the cables and allow it to slide easily and glide over any obstructions like the foam pads or around corners.

  • Great pilot house, particularly liked the massive, insulated w/tight door below. Bit surprised that the fiddles aren‘t higher, I‘ve raised them on my nav table and galley worksurfaces after crossing the Indian Ocean.

  • Suggest stripping, priming and painting the mast before stepping.

  • Hi mads, im sorry u had issues using the original cable as a draw wire but tape is not effective by itself, consult an electrician next time 😅 but stripping the sheith and twisting the cores trying to make sure it's no fatter than the original cabal is key, plus electrical tape to finish or loop the cable around the draw wire so it tightens as u pull it.. been watching 4 eva 👌

  • The removable transducer is also nice to prevent damage when it protrudes very close to where lifting straps go. Except when you forget to remove it and the lifting straps destroy the paddle wheel anyway :(

  • Wear decent gloves when riveting like that - it helps take away the shock when the rivet snaps, a lot less painful.

  • Good to see some more progress Mads. Athena will be at the marina before you know it.

  • didn't you have a radar ? why did you decide to change ?

  • Ahhhh I got my weekly Sail Life (Mads) fix...carry on y'all!

  • Lots of bandaids Mads lol

  • Biltema har en større popnitte/blindnittetang til ca. 300kr. Den kan jeg godt anbefale 👍 Den minder lidt om en boltsaks, samme størrelse i hvertfald 😁 Tak for nogle gode videoer, godt arbejde 👌✌️

  • Hello Mad, when you pull in the cable horizon as at the radar. make a small arc down so that rainwater does not follow the cable to the seal but drips off before regards Rickard

  • 52 is the size of the hole in your wallet after you purchase the Garmin instruments.

  • Excellent episode. Really good 👍

  • For a good rivet tool, buy one from Gesiepa from Germany.

  • That coaxial cable doesn’t look thick enough? Are you sure your installing the correct cable?

    • Pl259 fitting. So yep. It’s the good thick coaxial then 👍