Sail life - Technautics CoolBlue refrigeration & varnishing - DIY sailboat project

Publicerades den 27 dec 2020
This week I get Athena's fridge up and running using Technautics CoolBlue. That's going to be one spiffy fridge! Technautics website:
Drake Paragon (Drake and Mo) SEnewss channel:
Their CoolBlue video:
00:00 Introduction
00:30 This week's goal
01:40 Technatics CoolBlue
03:10 Kitchen island
04:17 Holding plate
05:21 Compressor
06:20 Mounting location
08:53 Installing the holding plate
13:44 Insulating copper tubes
14:20 Wiring
15:33 It's alive!
17:02 Oh glorious sanding
17:44 Last coat of varnish
18:20 Cya!

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  • May I ask how cold does your freezer section get?

  • Where is Yukon? Your dog?

  • For future reference Mads, if you have occasion to work with finer copper tubing again an exotic alloy known as 'Woods Metal' exists which melts in boiling water. If you pour Woods Metal into pre-warmed fine copper tube and let it solidify you can then bend the tube with little risk of it kinking or even deforming. After that, simply heat the tube in boiling water, pour the Woods Metal out again and flush the interior of your copper tube with more boiling water, be aware however that Woods Metal is toxic to touch! In the interest of wellbeing for you and your shipmates I suggest that you ensure any Sikaflex or other chemical compounds you use in the interior of your fridge are food grade!

  • Copper tube! Copper coat! Lol

  • Lovely

  • enjoy all these sailing videos. I know I will never buy a sailboat.......$$$$$hole

  • Mads. You're nearing your end of refitting Athena. Have you given thought as to how you're going to approach doing videos once you and Ava start sailing... IF you do videos? You have a real talent for instruction. Will you maybe take that and apply it to teaching how to sail?

  • I only watch this channel to get tips on what not to do with my hands when talking to cameras

  • I think there should be some hole up to refrigerator motor for fresh air. When motor start working this place will be so hot because of heat exchange and motor will going work more then spend more electricity.

  • Wow, this (Athena) is a complicity new boat now ! Very nice! Maybe you should install boat stabilizers on your boat? No , seasickness any more!!!

  • Furry Dice Mads? Spot on 😀👍

  • Hiya, Happy New Year to you both... Stay safe...Steve...

  • Hi Mads, agree with the other comments re insulation of pipes separately and guard for pipes in fridge. However, I would suggest vents for condenser in the bilge. I honestly can't belive heat build up would dissipate fast enough when you load the fridge. This will result in system running longer and not reaching your efficiency goals!

  • Nice work on the install. The holding plate looks like a good concept, I need to consider for my own boat. After looking at the Technauticsinc website I understand why Drake Paragon considered the support to be so good, it is the same group as Cruise RO. I have a Cruise RO water maker, and their support is amazing!

  • Ending this year with some glorious sanding!Happy and healthy New Year to you

  • Happy New year!

  • Might not be a terrible idea to build a small baffle around your copper fittings in the box, stuff can get active inside when in a seaway and it will be so much easier to clean the inevitable that will get on the tubing, opps, after perusing the comments, I realized I ain’t the only one with that concern.

  • I loved the "lists" you compiled before smashing Athena. They were stickies on the wall (LOL). It really helped me see and understand your process. Can you continue this?

  • We always giggle at "[...] a somewhat extensive refit [...]". Thank you for your videos and documentary!

  • Mads can see the light at end of the tunnel. Darn, its just someone with a flashlight. Best you keep your nose to the grind stone. As always, nice work. 👍

  • Hi WHere do the heat is coming out of the bilge where the compressor is ?

  • Good job looks great man

  • Happy New Year Mads.

  • Hi how come this technauticsinc , com is Not available

  • Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year, --- Peter, New Zealand.

  • Maybe you put some Armaflex under the floor board above the cooling unit for better sound insulation

  • "Firmly planted in overkill territory" ;-)

  • Slide to 8:03 in this video. Boat porn at its best

  • I see a major problem with your new fridge, where are the beers getting nice and frosty! Merry Christmas and a happy new year of sailing.

  • Awesome!Happy Holidays 🎊

  • These two copper lines need to be thermally insulated from one another. Only insulate one line, per the instructions from the manufacturer. Otherwise they will not transfer heat out of the refrigerator

  • Hi Mads, which granulation do you use for the sanding? Thank you!

  • Shouldn't you insulate the return separately from the supply line?

  • It's allways good if it makes some noice, then you know if it's suddenly is missing.

  • You are cool man. I like your style.

  • Congratulations Theo on getting the fridge up and running. Fantastic little unit. Happy new year to you. Australia

  • That actually a good thing as it will act like a trap and help create pressure to force the oil back to the compressor from the plate.. So its a good thing, not needed on the smaller tube.. Hopefully you have a small vacuum pump, it will be a good keeper should you need it in the future..

  • wow! that boat has some serious freeboard.

  • After so long the opening sequence seems wierd, It's floating in... WATER 👀🤔😎🎅🍻⛄

  • Did you find a European supplier for Cool Blue? Love the videos!

    • No it was shipped from the USA.

  • Besides the insulation issue, it would be good to install an air ventilation vent to the compartment holding the compressor. The lower the temperature of the air reaching the heat exchanger, the higher the efficiency. Love the size of that fridge.

  • Actually there is a down side to insulating them together, the smaller tube is hot and the larger one gets cold. Adding heat to the refrigerant that is destine to get cooled off by the condenser. It is not a deal breaker, but it will make it less efficient.

  • Yeah, your going to need vents. :-)

  • Adding to the chorus pointing out that there is a downside and you should absolutely not wrap them together. It hurts your efficiency, a lot.

  • Wouldn't it be better if the copper tubing were isolated? Half of usual energy consumption can only come at the expense of half the cooling quality. IMHO a cooling plate differs from a usual setup in that in increases the mass to be cooled. That is all. Some packs of beer would have the same effect. A large mass takes longer to heat up, agreed. But it takes a lot more energy and time to cool it down. And you need a large span between the switch on /switch off temperatures (hysteresis) to run it just 4 times a day. That leaves you with nice warm beer for lunch aswell as for dinner (at least you save on the beer warmer). There are two important points to keep energy consumption down: isolation of the box/tubing and efficient cooling of the compressor unit/heat exchanger. Recirculating the cooling air is certainly the LEAST efficient way of installing that part! The idea of using cool air from the bilge per se is actually cute - but you have to channel the air that comes from the heat exchanger out of the bilge via a dedicated insulated conduit leaving the hot air no chance to remain in the compressor compartment. You can introduce some slots in the cabin sole at a more remote location as an air intake. An alternative would be sea water cooling via a dedicated pump (more efficient). Some systems have intelligent electronics that sense high supply voltage and start running the compressor when the engine is running or the battery charger is active. That also helps. Side note as you are at it: you should protect the fresh laminate with a coat of bilge paint. You might want to mount the compressor unit on soft rubber feet.

    • Actually some of your assumptions are incorrect. I would encourage you to take a look at at the Coolblue site where they have graphs of box temps being much more stable at lower temps than with an evaporator system that is cycling dozens of times a day. Further water cooled units are problematic with fouled intakes and broken pumps a common occurrence. Bottom line the Coolblue units use half the power of others and that was the case on my boat. There is a very cool proses that occurs when the frozen fluid thaws you recapture all of the expended energy that was used to freeze it and then some. I have just added more solar on my boat but not more batteries, I will store the electric energy in the form of cooling in my refer. So I will run the unit during the highest sun period, freeze it down and turn it off, refrigeration with excess power! It will stay stable and cool in the refer until easily the following day or even 2!

    • good question

  • love the dice in one of the portholes

  • I had the CoolBlue for many year on a previous boat and it is awesome, quiet and efficient.. GOOD CHOICE.

  • Here is the link to the remote temp gauge we have been using for the past 20 years. The battery lasts about a year and the display is always on Without an interior temp gauge you will not know how well the box is doing

  • Merry Christmas Mads

  • Why didn't you get a tubing bending tool?

  • "Somewhat extensive?!"

  • As ever Mads you are making superb progress. I think the installation of ‘cool blue ‘ has garnered the channels record for specific comments - so I am not jumping in as well.😂 Hope you found some time to enjoy Christmas and the world can get back to some sort of normality by the time you want to go cruising with Ava, although I am pessimistic for international travel opening up in that time frame. Best wishes.😀🎄👍⛵️

  • I feel like the holding plate is taking up a huge percentage of your fridge volume. Any concerns about that? Were there any other considerations for how to build that thing with a "hidden" plate inside the fridge wall or floor or something?

  • now you got a place voor beer and pizza and nice warm feet, happy new year

  • If you look at the back of any domestic fridge inside the pipe foam you will see that the capillary line is soldered the full length of the suction line. The purpose for this is for heat exchange .If you look at a Psycrometric chart you can see that it is a boost in efficeincey . On TX valve systems like yours they sometimes install a heat exchanger to the system. Just taping your liquid line to your suction line and wrapping them together with foam is sufficient . Cheers

  • "...somewhat extensive refit". Mads, you probably could have built a new boat from scratch by now!

  • I have another Idea since you put the condensing unit into the bilge , it might be wise to put a spare bilge pump with a large capacity next to it just for some piece of mind. That's a beautiful condensing unit . If you didn't get instructions on how to read that sight glass in the top of the receiver , send me a reply. Excellent job as usual. Cheers

  • Do yo use a vacum pump on the copper tubing before open the gas on the compressor?

  • A suggestion. Mount a small computer fan to act as an "exhaust" for the compressor box. Air-cooled is great but requires air flow. In several restaurants I worked for, we mounted the air cooling outside the restaurant to improve the unit's efficiency. Just a thought. The downside is that the exhausted warm air will flow into the galley area. Merry Christmas, Happy New Year.

  • This comment is for the algorithm, merry Christmas algorithm.

  • 16:15 Love the knee pads!

  • nmea to usb or wifi

  • Thank goodness for the Oh Glorious Sanding!! I thought we were going to miss it. Merry Belated Christmas and a Happy New Year!

  • TIME OUT Time for a tough love conversation...Mads. With ALL due respect (and I mean that) you've hit a wall on this one I won't repeat myself and others but I would suggest consulting Technautics to improve your installation. Your guarantee might be at risk here. His SEnewss channel: ONE last thing (not mentioned), the location of your tubing insulation at 14:07 should be moved AWAY from the compressor to avoid creating a hot spot and gain access to the suction line for service if you should run low on refrigerant. Charge issues part 2: Don't forget the hose/gauge assembly and at least two canisters of 134a. Cheers, N

  • Mads, You made that look way too easy... refrigeration is black magic and should look harder! Merry Merry!

  • If you bend the tube on a former it will not kink Mads.

  • I have been waiting for several years for the upcoming videos 😄 Gadgets time ❤️ Happy new year 😘

  • Mads, you should separate the two copper lines from each other or you will lose system efficiency (hugely!).

  • It isn't Christmas without some glorious sanding 😂Merry Christmas Mads 😊👍

  • Thank you Mads for another great episode - your work is inspiring!! If noise ever becomes an issue, it could be a fun project to program a timer into the fridge compressor so that it only/mainly runs at night. Best wishes!

  • Some Ducaflex.

  • Is that a Sunon Maglev fan. Looks like something off a PC.

  • 👍👌🇨🇦❤🎄☃️🎅

  • You should only rap the return because the high pressure side will heat up the low pressure side and you need the high pressure side to lose the heat it has and not pass it off the the low pressure side. And refrigerator and air conditioner is no more a heat pump it doesn’t make cold it removes heat that is all so re rapping the lines should allow the system to hit colder temperatures faster and with lower energy use.

  • 17:02 ..." Is Santa here ? ...You mean he brought me the 3000 foam back Sanding pads and a new set of lungs to inhale all that Oh So GLORIOUS wood dust that i asked for " Merry Gritsmas Mads and a Happy New Fair ....

  • Good job. Next time you have to bend copper tube, fill the tube with sand. It will allow you to bend it without having to worry about it kinking

    • Sorry guy, I work. I dont have all the time in the world to sit on a computer and type. I would say more than likely the holes in the end. Because if you dont need the 12 feet im quite sure you have to cut them to make them fit. Now, I havw to get back to work. Have a good day.

    • @J W Waiting

    • @J W How are you getting the sand in the tube when both ends are sealed?

    • I never said cut anything. I said fill it with sand, and bend it... he fills it with sand. Bends it, then empties the sand out and he has a bent copper tube thats not kinked. So slow your roll dude. No need to freak out.

    • @J W OK! First off, the complete CoolBlue unit has been charged with refrigerant and sealed by both Schrader valve fittings. It can be ordered with various lengths of tubing, in this case shipped with the standard 12' lengths. The tubings are both sealed and pre-charged at the factory with Schrader (male) valve. There is no need to evacuate the system with nitrogen and hook up fancy stuff to make it work etc. Hence the benefit of the system, it's a do it yourself installation. Do you remember Mads mentioning a hiss sound when connecting the line to the system. That was the sound of released pressure in the system. NOW! What do you think would happen if you cut the lines, fill them with sand, bend and braised the fittings back on? Answer: moisture, oil dispersement, freezing and eventual damage to the compressor. Your suggestion is valid in other applications but not with this system. Check this out:

  • Nice! But holy hell that is expensive!!! Love your videos!!! Keep it up. I really cant wait to see whats next!

  • Merry Christmas 🎄 ⛄ ;)

  • So much technical progress in the last weeks, great! Do you have a special brand of these foam backed sanding pads?

  • Hi Mads - what happened to your noisy heating fan/pump (not sure now what was making the noise). Did you get it sorted out? All the very best to you and Ava (sorry if the spelling is wrong) for 2021 and Happy New Year to you both. Phil

  • Merry Xmas & a great New Year to you and Ava

  • Really interesting. Thanks for sharing with us once again 😀🙏

  • Nice video, merry Christmas and a happy new year

  • Merry Christmas and Happy New year...MADS.good job on your boat!

  • Excellent work, as always, and great to see progress coalescing on a finish :-))) Just a thought re the assumed absence of water in the bilge beneath the compressor - water usually gets in here from sources such as wet weather gear, (sails of course on a race boat), spillages, overflow taps, hatches left open etc and that bad day when water comes down the companionway, directly, so it may be worthwhile at least coating the elecs to prevent/limit water ingress or possibly a custom enclosure - sounds tricky, but you always do tricky so well. Cheers and good wishes for 2021!!!

  • Merry Christmas Mads.

  • Merry Christmas good sir.

  • Also... consider adding an RV 12v refrigerator circulating fan like

  • Its very unlike mads to just assume that insulating the gas lines together is ok, you have effectively ruined the great efficiency you just spent 5 mins telling us all about.

  • Mads, that holding plate is an old Crosby holding plate... big plate and exactly the same as the ones we have converted on our passport 40. We did the same technautics setup 4 years ago. Works great except we did dual setup frig/freezer. Excellent choice

  • Mads maybe I missed it, but since there was nothing connected to the compressor, what kept the refrigerant from leaking out?

  • Great work Mads, Short comment: don't insulate the high pressure line, and try to thermally separate the two lines. Long comment: the refrigerant coming from the compressor will be hotter than room temperature. The more heat it sheds on the way into the freezer, the faster and more efficiently it will cool your box. If it sheds its heat into the return line, the compressor won't be able to cool it down as far. Also, the efficiency of the compressor is highly dependent on how much cool air blows over the radiator. I think that location may get hot when the compressor is running. Might want to check out the compartment temp when the unit has been running for a while. Happy holidays!

    • Anecdotal support; a boat I crewed on recently had a cool blue system, compressor mounted under the galley sink. It had a seagull water filter for drinking water. We had warm drinking water. The owner has since increased airflow to the cabinet.

  • A few points.: 1. Follow the installation instructions regarding wrapping forward and return lines together. From my recollection, sometimes the liquid line in refrigerators is actually located inside the gas return, so some designs obviously expect close thermal coupling between the lines. Bottom line is, the amount of thermal coupling is one of the design parameters and should be addressed in the instructions. 2. Vibrations in those copper lines might induce wear at contact points. Insulating the lines together may be fine but they perhaps should only be in contact where they are strapped together, not where they might randomly rub each other. 3. The evaporator in the bilge may be cooled by the water outside the hull but you may want to duct the warm air from the fan so that it physically passes along the hull. This will ensure the air gets cooled. Thanks for your presentation. I do enjoy watching someone else work!

  • Merry Christmas from Canada - Love your channel.

  • hi the boat is looking very good

  • Merry Christmas Mads, great video again.

  • PV=nRT dude don't wrap both together

  • Merry Christmas my friend hope to see you next week and hope to see your four legged friend also. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

  • You are very talented I've been watching your channel for years I' wish you and Ava merry Christmas and a Happy New Year

  • Test it with a Budweiser