Sail Life - Dometic Proheat X30 hydronic heater on a boat, part 2 of 3 - DIY project

Publicerades den 13 dec 2020
In this video, I continue to work on Athena's heating system. All the plumbing gets finished, the heater gets installed and connected to diesel.
00:00 Introduction
00:55 Dometic Proheat X30 Features
02:21 Fan heater airflow
03:29 Soundproofing for the technical compartment
06:25 Buffer tank installation
06:45 Manifolds installation
08:04 Buffer tank installation
08:25 X30 installation
10:51 X30 connection to the diesel tank
12:50 Exhaust overview
14:30 Exhaust thru-hull location
17:42 Cya!

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Kommentarer

  • For the tiny screw holes for the sound foam poke a hole in the aluminum with a knife heat up a crappy screw driver with a torch and melt a hole through the foam. It'll sink but it works well and it's clean.

  • Merry Christmas

  • Airflow I see now, ty.

  • I’m really looking forward to see what the service interval will be on that forced air heater. That’s always been the thing that kept me away from them (Webasto, Eberspächer) in favor for drip heaters like Glembring and Refleks. I know you discussed it when you were building the DIY heater before but what made you go for this solution over the Refleks with coil Mads? I can definitely see the benefit when under way (you’d need a forced air heater then anyway) but the rest of the time you could have the same features right? Thermostat (not 5.. 😅) and hydronic system. I’m glad you’re feeling better, Merry Christmas!

  • Is this boat ever going to sail again or did it become a self feeding youtube studio ?

  • A few episodes back you recommended the 'Hornblower' series with audible. I gave it a go. Am now on book 5. Great stuff man. Thanks for that.

  • I lay no claim to Christianity or being a Christian in the mainstream sense of how those notions are held to nowadays but I also realise that such sentiments don't seem to matter that much to many anymore. All the same it might matter to you and to some of those who follow your exploits on this channel so in respect to those to whom it does matter, I will wish you all and those you care for a safe, happy and healthy Christmas. Normally I'd say, May everyone get what's comin' to 'em... but I'm feeling a little more upbeat and conciliatory in my middling years... so let's just go for the first and maybe friendlier forgiving version and be done with that.. neh? - A special thought/gift for all you "old salts" - senewss.info/slow/ntTJnsyTbrKtsLI/video - Enjoy!

  • We've been looking at adding hydronic heating to our trawler, both for cabin heat as well as domestic water heating. I hadn't seen the X30 before, finding myself mostly looking at the Eberspaecher and Webasto offerings. The X30 clearly is a much nicer bit of kit....thanks for highlighting it. Sadly, the price point is way out of the budget, but its nice to know its out there just in case I come into some money! Subscribed!

  • From my experience - any exhaust exiting aft of the boat regarding heaters is for me CO2 poison, the turbulence behind the boat at the mooring make unpredictable things, have rearranged mine to the side of the boat. Du må vurdere dette da. Problemet oppstår når båten ligger stille og vinden kommer forfra - eksosen havner i turbulensen - men ikke om du har utløpet på siden....

  • Nice power from that heater. I just use a Webasto Thermo Top C heating two large radiators. 6kW at full power and 0.6l of diesel and hour. Mostly it's running at 0.3l though since the full output isn't needed all the time.

  • Pretty dang spiffy!! Glad to see you back on form..it’s all coming together 👍

  • I have to ask if the exhaust is hot why isn't it going through a heat exchanger for increased efficiency, it should exit cold

  • NO SALTY NO PEACE.

  • I've used furnace cement in my wood burning stoves. it's not flexible at all and tends to fall out over time, due to the expansion and contraction of the joints due to heat. I've used a high temperature (300 degrees C) flexible sealant. Also, I'd advise the use of fibre glass for the insulation of the exhaust pipe to keep the severest of the heat away from everything else. You can buy marine exhaust fibre glass insulation online. Thanks for the great content, I've been watching for a long time now!! :-)

  • Well Done. Cheers

  • Great video as usual. If the fans on the fans on the heat exchangers are noisy consider swapping them out for Noctua fans. They make PC fans but also industrial fans that are very quiet.

  • What happened to the DIY waterheater?

  • Have you considered gluing on a compensation plate on the transom around that large hole

  • Remarkably, SV Delos is/has installed a similar system...

  • OK, if YOU'RE saying it's cold.....it's fricking cold!

  • With all those exhaust pipes in the cockpit locker, do you expect the seat to noticeably heated from waste heat ?

  • Being a huge fan of hydronic heating I am looking on this project with such envy that I am trying to envision a system like this for myself. That little X30 sounds amazing! Wicked spiffy install!

  • I understand the relief after ‘hole saw’ job is done! Something always plays on your mind just knowing both the hole saw and the hull are going to do their thing :)

  • overkill? you managed with the single stove on the other boat..how much bigger is athena to warrant this?

  • Seems complicated. How many things are there that can fail and cause this to not work? I like my heater. A Dickinson heater which has only one moving part, uses no electricity, and in the 30 years I've had it, I consider it the one most perfect system on the boat. But you've already committed to the X-thing, so good luck, hope it keeps you warm.

  • Instead of spacers you could go with ordinary heat tube insulation - type: mineral wool tubes.

  • Mads are you sure you tightened the diesel fitting 2 and a half turns? One turn is 360 degrees.... The last 1/2 turn looked like you only turned it 90 degrees and the first two possibly only 180

  • Says the guy with a hole in his hull 😆

  • Hi Mads, been watching your refit for a while and love it! inspirational! just wanted to suggest if you havent already for your heater exhaust lagging yo use a fibre glass tape which is what I have used on my boat for a couple of years. It works well and its easy to wrap around a pipe of any shape with all the attachments around it too to hold it in place. Keep it up!

  • “Thickend Expoxy” 😂👍. 🥃🥃

  • Looks fantastic. Glad you're feeling and sounding better!

  • i realy like what you are doing!! Can you extimae the value of the boat at this moment?

  • Can you give a minute of just the boat sitting in the water so we can really take it in, as she looks fantastic now !!

  • Great Job!

  • Will ou be adding some kind of cover / flap to the exhaust port? Would hate to see a proton torpedo (or a big wave ) find its way in.

  • Old and Good Multitool or digsaw to go through the sound insulation.

  • Red Loctite scares me.

  • Need to have some sort of bung to put in exhaust if you are in heavy stern seas. A few big waves whacking the back of your stern will most likely shoot water up over the loop and into your heater😱👍

  • Nice job so far!

  • Mads, in ship building we use insulation pins to secure insulation to the hull and other such places. When going to steel or aluminum we weld them, but where we can’t weld, like after paint, we use glue on pins. You can find them on Amazon, along with the caps, and glue. Epoxy would probably be an acceptable glue as well.

  • The international space station just called, they want some help installing their heating system which they say is much less complicated than yours!

  • To make a nice round hole on the sound insulation, warm up a screw or something else in metal that has the diameter you want and burn the hole in the aluminum. If you are planning to use epoxy adn wood to screw in to, I would rather epoxy in some threads to a nut on to screw it to the hull

  • Comment

  • Mads, it would be awesome to see an episode you chatting with Johan (Ran Sailing) randomly on repairs. Sharing ideas and stuff. If they haven’t left Sweden yet, you guys are pretty close to each other. THAT would be an amazing crossover!

  • Soooo close...!!! There will be a certain satisfaction by all, when you fire it up.

  • 7:50 - I LOVE you guys watch RAN Sailing.

  • That tech compartment is coming along nicely. Is it possible to move that ladder to the other side of the transom?

  • Very nice work , love your humility.

  • I have always had good luck with Dometic equipment in the US RV industry. As an RV Mechanic, I found the installation, use and service to be easy and convenient.

  • Really impressive work mate it looks very accurate and well thought out very impressed with this work

  • I would install a carbon monoxide detector either in the technical compartment or the cabin for safety.

  • ABSOLUTELY disgusted ...Not ONE ..I mean A single SECOND of sanding in this vid...poor show Mads ....Standards are slipping and expect to see clouds of dust,you in a full face mask and boiler suit in the next EPISODE !!!!

  • As always - your work is looking really good Mads - a real craftsman in the making. ATB. Phil

  • Have seen your amazing manifolds but a weak point is your brackets they are too flappy! Why no building an “A” bracket, much stiffer. Especially for the exhaust hose. A very interesting heater, curious of the outcome

  • For attaching the insulation check out "vanlife insulation part 2" in youtube. At 8:00 it shows how they do it for campers. Probably not stainless, but you could certainly find a way to use the concept.

  • I love your vids abd your style. 2 things: 1/STOP SHAKING YOUR HANDS WHEN HOLDING THINGS YOU WANT US TO SEE 2/ARE YOU GAINING WEIGHT?

    • Ouch! A little personal, don't you think?

  • Would little morsels of tape cut into rounds, then punched by an awl & covered by the plastic doohickeys* help to reinforce the sound proofing? * I'm 52 and this is very first time writing this word

  • I only saw one clamp on the connections to the hot water distribution manifold. Two hose clamps are always a good idea but even more so when fittings are mounted where simple gravity aided by vibration and shock can dislodge them. As always great work and things are looking great! I agree with your boss! Cockpit heater! Yes!

  • Have you tried a sharpened tube to make spiffy holes? No teeth means no tearing, it's the same technique used to drill holes in paper. Hope this helps and good luck - Bernie

  • At 8:06 is that a gauge to show how much is in the expansion tank? It's pointing the wrong way but if you mounted a mirror to it (and maybe some LED) you could easily spot check without having to climb into the technical area.

  • Looks like you got most of your materials at Sure Marine in Seattle. I found them to be a great resource and very helpful for technical guidance along the way.

  • Mads - can you post a link where I can buy those fan heaters

  • You know I haven't seed you finish the trim on the forward hatch ( inside trim)

  • Thank you Mads for the heater install video. That is a really nice and compact system. As mentioned below, you may want to see if you can add insulated lagging around the exhaust piping to help prevent anything from bumping or touching the hot piping. Take care, stay well and Happy Holidays to you and Ava and Jurkil.

  • hi nice work look good

  • You should rename this awesome boat “ Spiffy” 😅. I would go to the moon and back to have that heater started knowing how cold it is in December. Great video!! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

  • Mads, save yourself some aggravation and purchase some perforated back insulation pins, you can epoxy them to the hull, push the insulation onto the hull and the pins will poke through nicely, then secure with stainless washers as recommended by manufacturer and “twist” the sharp end of the pin back into the insulation to prevent the washer from working loose and from future pokes :-) in my trade we use this technique on HVAC ductwork

  • I just love your sense of humor, I laugh so hard! Thank you

  • I’m assuming that Ava put the squish down on the refleks stove.

  • When you have decided on the flexible exhaust hose it is important you are very careful that no saltwater can get between it and any insulation you are considering putting on it. Saltwater in close proximity to the hose is gonna rust it out in a very short time. Some sort of screen or mesh over it that keeps anything flammable away from it is a far better solution.

  • Might be able to tape the shinny size of the insulation and then use a small hole saw to prevent tear out

  • Well done. My exhaust is exactly there and it worked out great. The heater kicks bee-hind. 😉

  • The exhaust will require an insulation blanket or fiberglass lagging. Was it supplied with the kit?

  • Hey when its really cold you won't mind if you can hear it, just crank up the music! The sound box may be the way to go, great install BTW!

  • Just curious, was there a change in heart about the reflectX heater? Your older videos talking about it mentioned forced-air heaters exceeding their warranty pretty quick, and not really being rated for constant use (like for live-abords).

  • The rigid hose inner diameter is critical to heater operation. The metering pump is the fuel control, and the rigid hose can be considered a fuel injection component.

  • You are putting a Nomex sleeve over that exhaust pipe, right??

  • I'm buying all my friends the "Pretty dang spiffy" drinking game for Christmas this year...I hope they survive...

  • Looking good ...Merry Christmas!

  • If the buffer tank is always full it shouldn't be a source of much noise, but it will throw off a lot of heat, year around; its a small radiator. What are you doing about pumps to move your heating fluid around to/from the various heating zones. And do you need a separate pump to move a fluid from the generator to the 2th heat exchanger? BTW, the heat exchangers throw off a lot of heat; depending on where you have them, you might want to bury them in insulation. Yes, you'll want hot water in the warm months, but you don't want a small space heater cranking out heat. Lastly, what are you doing about make up air for your heater and generator? Once you get this system balanced and get all the air out of it, IMO you'll have a sweet set up.

  • Use a dremel and a drywall cutting bit

  • 90 degrees in a turn is a 1/4 turn.

    • You said 2.5 turns on the hose. You did 2.25

  • What happened to the portable kerosene heater you were using last winter? Should be good to keep the workspace toasty enough to finish the install and allow epoxy to cure.

  • A hole saw in reverse will cut a clean hole through the sound insulation.

    • I sharpen a pipe on the bench grinder and drive it with a plastic mallet with a piece of sacrificial plywood as a backer.

  • You used to show us "process" and progress. Locktighting coupling threads is fascinating (sarcasm) but you're cutting us short on guts of the work and actual DIY processes. Sure for those of us that have been with you for 3 years + are hooked on your progress, others tuning in for the "How to" are going to bounce your channel like a bad facebook page, Comon Man......

  • hello mads, I know you already cut the exhaust hole. was wondering why you didn't mount it in the centerline of the hull. due to the waterline rising while sailing, with the danger of a wave pushing water into your exhaust pipe.

  • Hi ,all is coming along well Mads , ref RAN heater out lets they may be ducked hot air and not fed by hot water ,just a thought ,will you need to put anti freeze in the system . Another fine video with lots of ideas and practical comments . Well done, stay safe .

  • Ah - I did not know everyone watched Ran Sailing as well! I've never been on a boat, but I love sailing DIY videos! Thanks for all your hard work!

  • Nice video

  • HO HO HO, looks spiffy.

  • Come on, man! That was 2 ¼ turns, not 2 ½! No leaks! ;)

  • Sailing is the most expensive way to travel for free.

  • "the year is 2096, and Mads has finally emptied his massive tub of furnace cement"

  • Between lighting and heat, you will be golden.

  • haven,t heard much about ventilation? an extract fan for cooker and shower is essential preferably with an air to air heat exchanger

  • Try using a Soldering Iron to make your holes. SEnewss " How to cut holes in Styrofoam with a soldering Iron" for an example. It works great!!

  • I like the idea of a large heat outlet in the cockpit!

  • Cockpit heating is an excellent idea.

  • I have had success, cutting holes in your type of foam. I use aluminum duct tape over the spot I want to cut. This reinforces the thin foil covering on the foam, and does not need to removed when done cutting the hole.

  • SHINY!!!