Sail Life - Servicing the mast, new prop & engine coolant - DIY sailboat

Publicerades den 11 okt 2020
In this week's video, I take a closer look at Athena's mast (with in-mast furling) and find and issue. I also fit the new fixed blade aluminum prop and I finish hooking up Athea's Volvo Penta D2-40F.
00:00 Introduction
01:00 Chanel introduction
01:35 Engine coolant
05:30 Servicing the mast
10:30 Raw water strainer
12:18 New prop installation
15:50 Mast-saver-2000
18.27 Cya!
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Kommentarer

  • The mastsaver 2000 looks like it needs a drain hole. Monel hardware can be purchased from aircraft repair supply vendors.

  • Anti freeze in the coolant is also anti-corrosive, and what you wouldn't (and didn't) need was a bath in vinegar. If you have calcarous deposits inside the primary cooling circuit (because someone had used tap water for filling up) cold vinegar wouldn't have removed that anyway. It needshot vinegar to get rid of these concrements.

  • In mast furling.... Nearly unsubscribed

  • The extended life coolant will also help prevent pitting on the cylinder liner/walls. Also on the raw water strainer at they y is it possible to back flush the raw water inlet on the sail drive to flush any sea weed or any ther contaminates that have made their way into the sail drive?

  • Bonjour, merci pour toutes vos vidéos mais pourquoi l'icone des sous titres n'apparait plus afin de pouvoir traduire automatiquement ce que vous expliquer? Merci. Hello, thank you for all your videos but why the subtitle icon no longer appears in order to be able to automatically translate what you are explaining? Thank you

  • Hello and what a fabulous job you are doing with most informative videos. I am rigging my Colvic Watson 34.5 and have two problems. I have a scanstrut radar mount but no feet/brackets. And I have a seldon C furler but no foils. Does anyone know where I can get these as they are old and no longer available. Many thanks

  • You can get them at lightingboltandsupply.com . They have monel nuts & bolts online.

  • Why didn't you choose a folding prop?

  • based on the drawing and experience, it seems the plastic washer on the prop goes between the prop and the saildrive and nothing on the cone. Yes the gaps seem troublesome, no reason for it. As money allows, go with a Variprop made in the EU so cheaper than the maxprop and perhaps better.

  • Hey Mads, Your spiffy new propeller should be coated with some kind of barnacle repellent. I installed 2 new sets of aluminium duoprops last Fall without coating them and now they look like small barnacle colonies. I’m gonna try Hempel’s paint system for my propellers next time I go up on the hard. Hope to see you cruise around Denmark next summer. Best regards from Svendborg.

  • We are ready 😅👍

  • Man, with all the work you are doing and your attention to detail, do not let your woman pilot you out of port. Just saying.

  • Hi Mads, I've got a bit of an unconmon question, but who's playing the music, that you're using around min. 8:00 and following? You've been using this song lots of times already in your previous videos and I always liked it.

  • I just finished your enitre* Athena Rebuild series and just want to say, Good Job, and that I enjoyed your content. *As a new viewer, and one who relies heavily on a proper playlist to binge watch an entire series..... It appears as if you are currently missing about 60+ varies episodes in the "Project Athena (DIY sailboat restoration)" playlist, and thus I wasn't able to watch them in chronological order. It may not matter much to a seasoned Sail Life viewer, but any new comers like me, they are going to want to watch the ENTIRE series from beginning to end. Cheers!

  • to me that looks like a anti-cavitation cone, so if true the gap is a non-issue!

  • Might I suggest you use titanium screws and nuts. It is a very noble metal and will not cause the corrosion issues with other metals. I use it extensively on my sailboat. I replaced my stainless chain[plates and all the hardware with Titanium. All my clevis pins and mast bolts are titanium. This year I will replace all my turnbuckles with titanium as well. Yes it costs more, but it is will last forever in these applications. Can't wait for someone to make a titanium mast.

  • Hi! will you add any engine oil temperature and pressure sensors and gauges? can you make a program about it? I have the same engine and I don't know how to do it. thank you

  • Carry a small sealed tub of Plasti-Dip onboard, paint it onto any sharp metal edges like the one you found. That's what we do on the racing yachts. Custom rubber covers for anything anytime. Keep the blue masking tape handy too :)

  • Regarding the corrosion of the mast, you can make plastic bushings that surround the screws and avoid the contact of metais, as if they were straws.

  • Don't worry Mads, when you get fed up with the furler jamming (and it will!), you can always mount a sail track on the mast and convert to a slab reefing system.

  • Your attention to detail and making sure everything is done right is awesome and make your videos great.

  • I was buying some monel rivets at SVB to secure my vhf antenna mounting to the mast. www.svb24.com/en/monel-blind-rivets.html I think they're also selling smaller units, if you don't want to stock up a hundred ;)

  • europe@extreme-bolt.com Denmark outlet

  • and the new prop dosnt need the space on the drive

  • but u can sil take it apart an use new nitter

  • i have seen a line cutter that attaches in front of the prop ,it looks a good idea

  • That prop looks like it will cause a lot of drag! Go for a folding prop with all that work you’re doing and add the extra kt of speed 👍

  • The problem of fixing aluminium to ss never goes away. Cadmium plated steel bolts with duralac could be a solution? Monel is worse than ss...

  • Mads: "but in order to do that I will need to take apart the entire mast". Me: *throws hands up* "of course the mast needs to be pulled apart".

  • I’ve watched every one of your videos; followed you for years..thought this one seemed a little..rushed...hope the deadline pressure isn’t affecting you..keep going, you’re an inspiration and you’re getting close...Regards David.

  • The prop is isolated from the drive unit in rubber I believe. Thus the small gaps are necessary to help reduce vibration transmission .

  • FASTENSAL Fasteners, (fastenal . com) would be my best guess for your " Mast Saver 2000" monel through bolts.

  • I installed that exact plastic two blade prop, that you had on your paperwork. The person switched from a folding bronze two blade, to the full plastic version. Client loves it, plus marine growth doesn’t stick to the plastic prop parts for some reason. Thanks!

  • Mad’s another great video. Before you buy a “folding” prop contact us. We have a better solution at a good price. Can’t say to much it’s in an upcoming video. But it will be the best decision you made............. Ant.

  • Mads you are one spiffy dude.

  • "A downside of using Monel is the galvanic corrosion that occurs when the alloy is exposed to saltwater. Any stainless steel or iron in contact with Monel will rapidly corrode." From: www.fastenercomponents.com/news/monel/ Doesn't look exactly like something you need. At least not for securing a stainless part...

  • !!!! HELP !!!! Danger of dictatorship in Italy !!!! HELP !!!!

  • Oi! You did welding off camera!!! Great work as always

  • I would have got a max prop. For the one reason you and Ava are going to sail on long journeys, It will be way worth the price as far as performance and the less time it would take to complete a voyage. Cheers!

  • I’m so happy when I hear “hi guys” and exited when I hear “seeeeeeee youuuuuu” I will bring my sailboat from Australia to anchor next to Athena one day in the future

  • Mad's let me know the specs for the bolts you need i can probably send you some.

  • Doing the 3 way for raw water you create turbulence 1 way in with a shield and strainer cover on exterior will prove better when one river goes into two will you find eddy's that is turbulence or two outside into one inside it's the same principle

  • on camera that prop looks massive

  • Hey Mate, wear disposable nitrile gloves when working with these liquids and greases... not good for your skin...

  • Scrap the in mast furling. Horrible idea. A sailing boat should have proper sails

  • You are right about giving all you can in work on mast

  • Monel also known as alloy 400. Available at Mcmaster Carr in States...link....www.mcmaster.com/alloy-400-bolts

  • Fantastic videos and a massive help in keeping my boat afloat, THANK YOU! I've just serviced my identical Selden mast and I noticed that your halyard swivel is also missing a plastic guard on the section that slots through the gap in the mast and fastens to the main halyard. This leads to the attachment point for the mainsail head wearing away and I saw yours was quite worn down. Without that plastic Guard, the sail attachment point will rotate against the inside of the mast and bang against the inner slot face...if you know what I mean. You can't buy the part anymore but I made mine out of a piece of nylon. Looking forward to next weeks video. Very best wishes.

  • What happened to the Maretron WSO100? I bought one after you showed it on the channel several years ago! I like it - so wondered why you're switching? Cheers!

  • Hello Mads, Thank you for your excellent video and humor. I've been thinking about your mast repair and arrived to the conclusion that I would NOT use the main furling. Your system is not going to allow you to reef the main if you do not have the wind on the nose because the main rubs against the edge of the mast rail, where it exits. On top of it, you have leave the cockpit and go to the mast to roll it with the handle in the middle of a blow. No a good setup for safety. Best would be to upgrade to a regular sail with lazy jacks and a simple reefing line to the cockpit. The boat sails MUCH better with regular or full batten main sail and the reefing is done almost anytime safely. Good luck!

  • There is a hole missing in the bottom of the mastsaver 2000 to get rid of excessive water poring in when you furl a wet sail. The boat deserves stainless outlets in the stern Mads.

  • So Sélden do not have a good customer service, neither have Volvo. And they both have a lot of issues as I have experienced often on our Sweden yacht 34. Very expensive spareparts and lots of failures. The Sélden roller for the headsail is the most dangerous as we have twice had situations where we couldn't roll the sail in or out once it got itself stuck. that kind of thing happens when the wind is howling which can tear your mast of. Not thrilled about there two brands I have to say. Get profurl rollers and a Yanmar diesel is what I have come up with after talking to a lot of people.

  • at some point we need a video of all your start phrases and ending tags. :) that would be fun to watch over the 5 + years.

  • In case monel bolts are hard to come by a dozend monel rivets (biggest dia available) might do it. Just use more than seems reasonable ;)

  • The best sailboat restoration video on SEnewss. I enjoy the step by step information. Keep them coming.

  • OMG 😍💋 💝💖❤️

  • Sweat! Now Blood!All you need are Tears and you are truly devoted to Athena!😉👍😊

  • "I'm guaranteed I won't have any corrosion issues with this" . And Mr. Reality chuckles in the background. :-)

    • And then says "Challenge accepted!"...

  • Duca & Roberta just launched their boat on Utube, Mads you are next. Tom

  • Few things are better than a well equipped workshop next to your boat project.

  • "...Volvo pusher..." LOL I would suggest adding a drain hole to the mast-saver 2000.

  • Great post 👏🏻👍🏻👍🏻

  • As Always Mads Excellent Video

  • I need boyfriend 💋💋💋💋💋💞💞💞💞

  • Mads for H***** !! Du er så vild altså, jeg glæder mig til at se dit hjem i søen 😃 Tak for turen indtil nu 😃

  • Plenty of suppliers on the inter web for Monel bolts

  • bonjour pourquoi il y a plus de sous titre merci

  • So much progress! Nice work on the mast restoration. Look great!

  • Love you 💋💋😘😘❤️💯

  • 13:43 I love that. Do you love me? 😍💋 💝💖❤️

  • I wonder if you have you mounted the new prop the right way around? i.e when you want to move forward under power will you end up moving forward or in reverse?..just asking...

  • Awesome 😍💋 💝💖♥️❤️

  • Hopefully you pad the wires going through the mast so you don’t get wire slap when the mast flexes during high winds. Otherwise it will keep you awake at night! I know this from sad experience. 😬

  • owww nooooww! He is going to build a whole new mast now :)

  • The great thing about those leftover steel bearings is they are great for playing marbles. You really don’t need “all” of those bearings, do you? Ha

  • Check out Kiwi Props, we have had ours for 15,000 miles and 7 years, no issues. about a third of the price of a max prop.

  • Could that gap be for a line cutter?

  • Hej Mads. Har du husket en dræn mulighed for vand, nu da du går fra indv. Til udv. Montering af Alu. Profilen?

  • Wow, Mads, another excellent video! Your courage and tenacity are inspirational. Have yourself a great day as we here in Canada celebrate Thanksgiving Day.

    • Not sure many are celabrating during this LOCK DOWN

  • I'm Single 😍😥

  • blue masking tape and paper towel band-aid, classic among doers!

  • www.amazon.com/dp/B07TDP82DL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ClcHFbDQZAHT5. Not sure if these are an option... Great work Mads!

  • Mads. As your break cleaner consumption is pretty high maybe consider buying it in 5l containers and filling a pump bottle spray doohickey. Its much cheaper than aerosol cans

  • Maybe the gap is to fit a rope cutter, I have one on my boat for the time you may run over said rope.

  • US NAVY RETIRED, DESIEL MECHANIC. I WAS A PLANNER/ ESTIMATOR FOR OVERHAUL OF ALL TYPES OF DIESEL ENGINES AT THE PHILA NAVAL SHIPYARD IN LATE 80 IES. YOUR QUESTION OF DETERIATION OF CYLINDER WALLS. METAL ON METALS ALWAYS TAKES AWAY FROM CYLINDER WALL AN PISTON, A NATURAL PROCESS. THE COOLANT THAT INHIBITS SOME WEAR IS ALSO AFFECTED BY VIBRATION. EVERYTHING VIBRATES TO A CERTAIN DEGREE. IT CAUSES WEAKNESS IN METAL AND CAUSES WEAR. YOUR ENGINES HAS SPECS OF WEAR LIMITS. WHEN PISTONS ARE REPLACED THE ORIGINAL PISTON SIZE MAY NOT BE CORRECT FOR AN OLD ENGINE, TOO LOSE, THAT IS WHY THE CYLINDER MUST BE HONED. ENGINES CAN HAVE A NUMBER OF HONINGS BEFORE IT NOT WORTH IT. EXPENSE, ETC. I SUGGEST INSTEAD OF TRYING TO PREVENT MORE CORROSION OF THE CYLINDER WALLS ON YOUR NEXT MAJOR ENGINE MAINTENANCE PERIOD CHECK , THE SPECS OF CYLINDER DETERIATION AND THE PISTON WEAR. IF IT OUT OF SPEC, THE COOLANT ADDITATIVE WILL NOT HELP. THE CORRECT PROCEDURE TO DO IF EVERYTHING ELSE ABOUT THE ENGINE IS OK GO AND HAVE OVERSIZE PITONS PUT IN AND HONE THE CYLINDER TO CORRECT SPEC. THIS BASICALLY GIVE YOU A NEW ENGINE PERFORMANCE WITHOUT RESORTING TO BUY A NEW ENGINE. WHEN YOU BUY A NEW ENGINE THAT IS JUST THE BLOCK ASSEMBLY MINUS THE OTHER PARTS. I HOPE THIS ANSWERS SOME QUESTIONS.

    • Please accept this humbly... ahem... Joel... YOU FUCKEN ROCK! I did not know this and am elated to have learned this today. Thank you for sharing that. Cheers mate

  • Great video as usual Mads. One small thing, whilst you are out of the water do yourself a huge favour and fit a rope cutter. Not cheap but with all the fishing and pot buoys around you will be a lot more relaxed approaching land, especially at night.

  • The closest supplier to you is www. extreme-bolt.com who have offices in Denmark.

  • I can recommend Oetiker ear clamps, they have stainless stepless versions that would be perfect for the job. It’s the OEM stuff and you never bleed from installing them ;-) it’s just challenging to find the right sizes.

  • monel fasteners can be got at aircraft supply stores ....but very costly

  • 10:43 has the best 😍💋 💝💖❤️

  • fastenersolutions.com has Monel nuts and bolts.

  • Jamestown distributers USA monel rivets

  • Are you sure about in-mast furling and fixed prop? Think you’ll probably regret both. In-mast furling has a few big disadvantages-your centre-of-gravity is too high, the same shape is terrible when you most need it to be good, it’s slow to put a reef in when you most need it to be fast, and when it inevitably jams you’re really stuffed. A fixed prop is like towing a bucket everywhere you go. If cost is a problem just get a KiwiProp-reliable, tough and will give you half a knot over a fixed blade when sailing.

  • Mads, the gaps and the plastic ring between the prop and the zinc + propnut are to prevent galvanic corrosion. The hub inside the prop looks aluminium but is sythetic. All to prevent corrosion. This is also why the propnut is replaced by a plastic/bronze version. The plastic ring is the same material as the flappy bits vetween engine and saildrive. Your installation is correct now.

  • Aircraft hardware dealer should have you monel hardware. Here in the states we have Aircraft spruce and specialty.

  • HASM monel bolts at hasmnorthamerica.com is a worldwide manufacturer and supplier of K-500 monel screws. I have never used them but that is what I found when I looked them up. Good luck.

  • The prop situation is all kinds of wrong. It looks wrong, there's no logic behind it, and it exposes everything to corrosion far more than the old prop did. Frankly, i'll be honest, it looks like a cheap Chinese part you get from one of the usual suspects. Looks ok when you get it out of the box, but once you mate it to the rest, everything's wrong, like it was made with the wrong dimensions.

  • You are soooooo lucky to have a machinist friend willing and able to help fabricate parts...priceless!

  • Mass I’ve watched every video. I’m a fan but that three blade fixed prop is the pits for sailing. I know you are going to be switching it out. Also you might want to look into something call PropSpeed. I’ve been very happy with it.

  • 🙄I was waiting for this video all day, just found out that my subscription was not active anymore, I had to re-subscribe! 🙄